Chapter #5 - Going up and up

July 10, 2019

It was time to leave. As usual, we secured the backpacks to the back of the rear handle but this time we covered both the bags with a protective rain cover as the weather was turning cloudy. Rathore was feeling better than last night.  

We started at around 6:30 am from Sarchu and after about half an hour of driving, Rathore started complaining about mountain sickness and started vomiting. I stopped the Activa and asked him to empty the stomach. We often think vomiting as some sort of bad thing but it's actually good for us as it helps in preventing the mountain sickness. Then, we started again. From there, the roads were great as expected. BRO was at it again. Salute to all the workers.

The next station was Gata loops. It was time to put Activa to the real test. Gata loops are 21 very tight, hairpin bends, and with a very steep slope, they will take the juice out of your ride. These 21 loops will take you to the first highest pass on Manali - Leh route. This pass is Lachungla pass. On our way up, we gave full throttle but unfortunately, we managed to reach the speed of a mere 10 km/h. Yes, 10 km/h with full throttle. It was heck of a task and a test of our patience. We did not hurry as we knew this even before we started. 

Image source - AllGud things

As we climbed through the loops, I noticed a heap of plastic bottles on the side and I was like " People don't understand, this is a fragile environment, why do people have to litter everywhere " but I did not know the reason behind those bottles. On a closer look, I was astonished to see that all those bottles were filled and were unopened. So, what was the reason? 

Here goes the legend behind the water bottles of infamous Gata loops. 

Some years ago, A truck fully loaded with goodies and other materials, was on its way from Manali to Pang. It was the middle of winter season and nights were chilled. The truck driver managed to cross the Baralacha pass before it started snowing heavily. I told in my recent blogs that once it starts snowing in Baralacha pass, it is near to impossible to cross it via road. Anyway, the truck driver, along with his helper, continued to drive and reached Gata loops and helper asked for water but they had none, and at that time, it was snowing heavily at Gata loops and winds were freezing. Unfortunately, the truck broke down in the middle of 6th-7th loop. There was no way to go back so the truck driver decided to ask for help from the nearby village setting and get some water to drink. The helper stayed back as the truck was loaded with expensive stuff and someone had to be there to look after. Hours passed but the driver could not make it back to the truck due to heavy snow and there was no one around. It was only dark, pitch-black. 

With no water to drink and frostbite like conditions, the helper died on the spot and his body was never recovered.  The legend goes like if you are crossing the loops, it is mandatory to offer a water bottle on the site where the incident happened. This is the reason there were around 100s of water bottles. One more interesting thing is that just between the heap of bottles, is a hut shaped make-shift temple and there is a real Human skull inside that hut. I am not putting up the image of the skull as it is scary and some might find it disturbing.

Going ahead, we finally crossed the loops with so much patience and reached the top, Lachungla pass. We were at around 16000 feet and we could now see the entire Ladakh Plateau. There were small water crossings on the way, which we traversed relatively easily. We left from Lachungla after taking some rest. 

The roads after Lachungla Pass were worst of worst, not because of carelessness but because of harsh weather, the roads does not stay for long at once place. The path was full of stones, rubble, dust, and Activa was shaking like anything. I was driving at that time as I wanted Rathore to take some rest but still, I did pretty well. One road was full of stones, it was a task to keep on moving in a straight line. The views were obviously heavenly but all my senses were in driving as a little mistake could have brought us down.

After carefully driving for around 3 hours, we finally reached Pang. It's a stopover for everyone going to Leh. Before it used to a base for Army but now, it is open to everyone. Pang also has the highest medical emergency facility and this is where one can get medications or oxygen if required. 

As I sat for a Bowl of Maggie at Pang, Rathore was feeling low probably due to AMS, I asked him to go to the emergency room and get some medicine. The personnel there did not give any medicine, instead, they gave him an adrenaline injection...Hahaha. I am joking, it was probably to make him feel better as soon as possible. After getting injection, his energy was back to a high level. He was feeling much better. Together, we had a bowl of maggie and memos. Pang was humid at that time and the weather was a bit harsh on the skin. After having some chit chat with fellow travelers, we left Pang.  

After around one hour of driving, we were finally in the More plains. In true words, More plains is a Blessing for riders. Sandy mountains overlooking vast plains and a single black tar road with solid yellow lines looking like someone just repainted them. What else could we have asked for?

After a long, tiring, and testing climb through Gata loops, we finally got a chance for a thrill ride. To all, Enjoy the ride in More plains, touch the top speed but with safety. You will surely be tempted to break all the rules as the road through more plains is just wow but still, be cautious and be careful. The roads are world-class and not even a single pothole is there. This will probably be the best ride of your life.

We touched the top speed of 85 km/h in More plains and made up the time lost in Gata loops. The ride was so soothing and relaxing and on the way, we waved at so many riders returning from Leh. That was a different experience. 

The next stop will be the second-highest motorable road and pass in the world - The Taglangla Pass. 

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